E40d torque converter drain
Justin Cupler is a professional writer who has been published on several websites including CarsDirect and Autos. Cupler has worked in the professional automotive repair field as a technician and a manager since He has a certificate in broadcast journalism from the Connecticut School of Broadcasting.
Cupler is currently studying mechanical engineering at Saint Petersburg College. Step 1 Raise the front of the vehicle with a floor jack and place the jack stands under the frame rails.
Step 2 Slide the drain pan under the vehicle until it is directly under the transmission pan, the metal pan at the bottom of the transmission. Step 3 Crawl beneath the vehicle, loosen and remove all but four of the bolts -- leave one at each corner -- from the transmission pan, using a ratchet and socket. Step 4 Pull down on the transmission pan to free it from the base of the transmission. Step 5 Remove the remaining four bolts from the pan, using a ratchet and socket, once the fluid has stopped draining.
Step 6 Scrape the pan gasket from the top of the pan, using the razor blade scraper, and use the abrasive pad to clean the top of the pan. Step 7 Spray the inside of the transmission pan with the auto parts cleaner and wipe it down with shop rags. Step 8 Place a thin bead of RTV silicone around the top part of the pan, where the gasket sits, and place the gasket on the pan. Step 9 Place the pan back on the transmission and hand-tighten the 20 bolts.
Step 10 Raise the vehicle off of the jack stands with a floor jack and remove the jack stands. Step 11 Open the Ford's hood and remove the transmission dipstick from the filler tube located at the rear, passenger's side of the engine.
Step 12 Reinsert the dipstick and start the vehicle. Step 13 Place the transmission indicator in "Park" and check the transmission fluid level on the dipstick. Below the crack it seems to be slightly rust colored.
Above the area, it still has some paint and on it No water appeared even with the engine warmed up. For all I know it weeped a tad and self sealed years ago. We stretched a tarp on the ground as a precaution. After a few minutes we saw a drizzle coming from the dust cover. Looked like tranny fluid. The good news is it isn't the rear main seal. The bad news is I'm not sure what might cause the tranny to leak a small drizzle of fluid. A front transmission seal typically would only drip, right?
No movement. He put it into each gear and zero movement, not even an engine speed change. I pulled the dip stick and there was no fluid showing. OK, I know it's along read, but thought it best to tell the entire story so you guys can get a better picture of what's going on.
The guy is a fellow flooring installer like me. Nice guy and I trust what he told me. Sounds like the front seal failed badly or maybe the front pump housing or torque converter itself has cracked? I went over yesterday and added a couple quarts of fluid, then we started it up.
I removed the rubber plug from the tranny so the fluid would drain in a more controllable manner. In 3 to 4 minutes of idling, it lost a quart. During that time, I had him put it in and out of gear a few times and it did go into gear normally as far as I can tell. Before I left, I added another two quarts and had him quickly move the van forwards 8 feet then backwards again so the van was parked in a better position for accessing the underside.
Before moving it, the van set low in a rut and crawling under it was really difficult. I live 3 miles away from this fella and I'm rigging up a catch container so maybe I can drive it home to where I can work on it.
I might have to stop a time or two on the way home to add more fluid or empty the container, but by driving it, I'll know if it's shifting OK. Supporter Yes, a couple of the most likely causes are the front torque converter seal, the rear seal, or the pan gasket. A pan gasket and filter would be easiest to replace if you can get under enough it to see if it's leaking.
When its not running dose it happen to start leaking as soon as you put any fresh fuild in it? In a that case then the pan gasket is the first thing to check. If the front seal is damaged the front pump bushing and or torque converter hub is also likely wornout.
If the trans still works pulling it out to do the repair probably wouldn't take very much time to get it back to a useable truck. Good luck. Gasket is dry. The fluid is running out forward of the pan. There is a rubber plug in the casting in front of the pan. The van moved forward just fine after I added 2 quarts of fluid. My concern is this. If the guy was driving up a hill with passing lanes and looked in the rear view mirror and saw "smoke" or possibly fluid spewing onto the hot exhaust What kind of damage might have occurred?
It's one issue if it was the rear main seal as he initially suspected. It's a totally different thing if the smoke he saw was from fluid splattering on the exhaust pipe and muffler, or the transmission getting so hot Can transmission fluid from an e40d transmission get sucked into the intake. I read that they don't have vacuum modulators. Most likely the front pump bushing galled, stuck to the torque converter and then spun in the pump housing.
It's an E4OD thing. Usually happens under load. If so, it will need a front pump, and possibly a torque converter. There are no metallic particles floating around in the quart of fluid that drained out into my catch bucket.
The transmission engaged normally and the van moved forwards and backwards. Reinsert the dipstick and start the vehicle. Allow it to reach operating temperature, roughly halfway up the temperature gauge on the instrument panel, and shift through every gear while holding the brake pedal. Place the transmission indicator in "Park" and check the transmission fluid level on the dipstick.
It must be inside the crosshatched area on the dipstick. If the fluid is low, add Mercon fluid until it reaches the crosshatched area. Pour the fluid from the drain pan into the empty Mercon transmission fluid bottles, using a funnel as a guide. Take this old fluid to a local auto parts store for proper disposal. Justin Cupler is a professional writer who has been published on several websites including CarsDirect and Autos. Cupler has worked in the professional automotive repair field as a technician and a manager since He has a certificate in broadcast journalism from the Connecticut School of Broadcasting.
Cupler is currently studying mechanical engineering at Saint Petersburg College. Step 1 Raise the front of the vehicle with a floor jack and place the jack stands under the frame rails. Step 2 Slide the drain pan under the vehicle until it is directly under the transmission pan, the metal pan at the bottom of the transmission. Step 3 Crawl beneath the vehicle, loosen and remove all but four of the bolts -- leave one at each corner -- from the transmission pan, using a ratchet and socket.
Step 4 Pull down on the transmission pan to free it from the base of the transmission. Step 5 Remove the remaining four bolts from the pan, using a ratchet and socket, once the fluid has stopped draining. Step 6 Scrape the pan gasket from the top of the pan, using the razor blade scraper, and use the abrasive pad to clean the top of the pan.
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